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Cornish Pasty

Cornish Pasty

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Yield: 4 Servings
Adapted from Food Wishes

This Cornish pasty is one of those rare recipes that novice cooks will find easier to make than experienced bakers. That’s because to make this to its original, and very sturdy specifications, you’re forced to over-mix the dough…a cardinal sin that literally gives pie makers nightmares.
Like any pastry dough, we’re just adding just enough ice water to bring everything together, but unlike classic pie dough, we’re going to knead the mixture for a couple minutes past that point. Thanks to a little thing called muscle memory, this is not going to be easy for some of you.
Get over it; because once you taste and feel the final product, it will all make sense. The tougher, but not tough dough is the perfect delivery system for the meaty filling. Speaking of which, I went with a fairly traditional version, and provided the recipe below, but this great crust will work with all sorts of stuffing’s.
You could use cooked meat in these, but part of what makes them so good, is how the raw ingredients cook in their own juices, while encased in the tasty dough. I can’t imagine many things that wouldn’t be great in these.

Dough

  • 4cups bread flour
  • 2oz (4 TBS) cold butter
  • 3oz (6 TBS) cold lard
  • 1½tsp salt
  • ⅔-¾cup ice water, or enough to just bring dough together (start with about 1/2 cup, and then drizzle in more as needed)

For the steak filling:

  • 12oz cubed beef skirt steak
  • ½cup diced onions
  • 1cup diced gold potatoes
  • ⅓cup diced turnip or carrot
  • 1½tsp salt
  • 1tsp freshly ground black pepper
  • pinch of cayenne
  • 2TBS butter, cut into 8 thin slices

For the egg wash:

  • 1large egg, beaten with 1 tsp water

Dough: Add flour and salt, butter and lard into food processor and pulse to cut butter to pea size pieces. Add ice water and pulse until it comes together.

Dump on work surface and hand knead for a couple of minutes until it makes a smooth ball. Wrap in plastic and chill a few hours.

Filling: Preheat oven to 350°F.

Mix all filling ingredients in a medium bowl.

Pasty: Cut dough into 4 equal pieces. Roll out until about 8 inches wide and 1/4 inch thick. Coat with egg wash over entire surface.

Add one quarter of filling to each piece of dough, off-center and top with a couple of thin pieces of butter.

Fold over the door, press all around the edge. Trim excess dough. Crimp with fork.

Poke fork into top to make steam hole. Paint with more egg wash to coat.

Bake pasties at 350°F for about an hour or until browned and bubbly.

Cool for 15 minutes, serve.

Black Pepper Beef & Potatoes

Black Pepper Beef & Potatoes

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Cantonese
Yield: 4 Servings
Chris Kimbel / Milk Street

Stir-fried beef with black pepper sauce is a Cantonese classic. This version has a twist and uses red and sweet potatoes into the mix.

  • 3TBS grapeseed or other neutral oil, divided
  • 3TBS soy sauce
  • 5medium garlic cloves, finely grated
  • 4tsp finely grated fresh ginger
  • 2tsp cornstarch
  • Kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper
  • 1lb beef sirloin tips or tri-tip, patted dry and cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 12oz Yukon Gold or red potatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 6oz sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 1medium yellow onion, chopped
  • 1red, yellow or orange bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and cut into ½-inch pieces
  • 6TBS finely chopped fresh cilantro

In a small bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoon of the oil, the soy sauce, garlic, ginger, cornstarch and 1 teaspoon pepper. In a medium bowl, toss the beef with 2 tablespoons of the soy sauce mixture, then let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes. Whisk 3 tablespoons water into the remaining soy sauce mixture; set aside.

In a medium microwave-safe bowl, toss both types of potatoes with 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and microwave on high until just shy of tender (a fork inserted should meet just a little resistance), about 8 minutes, stirring halfway through. Set the potatoes aside.

In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high, heat 1 tablespoon of the remaining oil until shimmering. Add the beef in a single layer and cook, turning about every minute, until well-browned and the center of the thickest piece reaches 120°F (for medium-rare), about 4 minutes total. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

In the same skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high until shimmering. Add the potatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and browned, about 3 minutes. Add the onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring, until slightly soened, about 4 minutes. Reduce to medium and return the beef and accumulated juices to the skillet, then pour in the reserved soy sauce mixture. Cook, folding gently, until the juices have reduced slightly and the ingredients are well-coated, about 2 minutes. Stir in ¼ teaspoon pepper and 5 tablespoons of the cilantro. Transfer to a platter and sprinkle with the remaining cilantro.

Corned Beef & Cabbage

Corned Beef & Cabbage

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Yield: 3 to 4 Servings
Adapted from Chef John / Food Wishes

Irish or not, it seems you must have this on St. Patrick’s Day.

Use a “point cut” for a more tender result. Some claim the “flat cut” has a little more flavor, but I prefer the tenderness of the point cut. Keep any leftover meat to make corned beef hash. Not you have real joy and “Céad míle fáilte.”

Prep: 5 Cook: 2½ to 4 hrs

  • 2-3½lb corned beef brisket
  • spice packet
  • 2TBS brown sugar
  • 2bay leaves
  • water to cover
  • 1onion, quartered
  • 3carrots, cut in large chunks
  • 3ribs celery, cut in 2-inch pieces
  • 1tsp salt
  • 2lb red potatoes, washed, cut in half
  • 1small green cabbage, cut in 8ths


Place beef in a large Dutch oven or stockpot; cover with water. Bring to a simmer. Skim any foam. reduce heat and add brown sugar, bay leaves and contents of seasoning packet then cover and simmer, 1½ to 3 hours, depending on size, until nearly done.

Add potatoes, onion, carrots and celery and cook for 30 minutes.

Add and cabbage, cover and cook until beef and vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 minutes

Remove beef and rest 15 minutes.

Cut beef across the grain into slices. Serve with vegetables, some of the broth and Irish Soda Bread.

Savory Potato Tart

Savory Potato Tart

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Yield: 8 to 10 Servings

David Tanis / NY Times

We all love a rich, creamy French potato gratin, but for a special occasion, or just for fun, make this version, which is encased in buttery flaky pastry so the gratin becomes a savory tart. Serve a small slice alongside roasted meats, or a larger portion for a vegetarian lunch, accompanied by a green salad. If you want to make it a few hours ahead, or even a day before, it reheats beautifully.

For the pastry:

  • 2cups AP flour, plus more for dusting
  • ½tsp salt
  • ½lb (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter cut in ½-inch chunks
  • ½cup ice water

For the filling:

    • 2lb medium yellow-fleshed potatoes, such as Yukon Gold, peeled
    • 1¼cups crème fraîche
    • 1TBS kosher salt
    • ½tsp black pepper
    • Pinch of grated nutmeg
    • 2garlic cloves, minced
    • 2tsp chopped fresh thyme

For the egg wash:

      • 1egg yolk
      • 1TBS cream or crème fraîche


Make the pastry:
Put flour and salt in a mixing bowl (or use a food processor or a stand mixer with paddle attachment). Add half the butter and mix well, until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add remaining butter chunks and the water and mix until dough comes together. Remove dough, divide into two equal pieces and dust with flour. Quickly form each piece into a ball, then press down to make two 1-inch-thick disks. Wrap and refrigerate for at least an hour. (May be made a day in advance or frozen for up to 2 weeks.)

Make the filling:
Slice potatoes as thinly as possible, using a sharp knife, mandolin or food processor. Put potato slices in a large bowl and add crème fraîche, salt, pepper, nutmeg, garlic and thyme. Mix well with hands, making sure all slices are coated and seasoning is well distributed. Set aside.

Make the tart:
Heat oven to 425°F. On a well-floured surface, roll out each pastry disk to 12½ inches in diameter. Line an 11-inch fluted French tart pan (with removable bottom) with one sheet of pastry, pressing in at the sides and leaving a 1-inch overlap hanging.

Add the potatoes to the tart pan in even layers, making sure to scrape in all remaining crème fraîche with a rubber spatula. Lay the second pastry sheet on top. With a paring knife, trim excess dough and crimp the edges all around to seal. Make a few slits in the dough to allow steam to escape. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and set tart on it. Stir egg yolk and cream together and paint the top of the tart generously.

Bake the tart:

Bake for 10 minutes at 425°F, then reduce heat to 350°F and bake for 1 hour more, until top is golden and potatoes are tender when probed with a paring knife. Cool slightly, then set tart pan over a small, sturdy bowl, so that the bottom of the tart pan is elevated and the fluted ring comes off. Carefully transfer tart to a plate. Serve small slices, hot or at room temperature. May be cooled completely and reheated if desired.

Pommes Anna

Pommes Anna

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Yield: 6 to 8 Servings
Adapted from Melissa Clark / NY Times

A classic French dish, pommes Anna translates as Anna potatoes. A mandoline works well for cutting the potatoes into thin, uniform slices. This recipe calls for clarified butter

  • 5lbs russet or all-purpose white potatoes, as needed
  • ¾cup clarified butter, melted
  • Kosher salt, as needed
  • Freshly ground black pepper, as needed

Heat oven to 450°F. Place a rack in the middle and set a rimmed baking sheet on top of it.

Trim potatoes into cylinders, peeling any skin left after trimming. Using a mandoline or sharp knife, slice into 1/8-inch slices and blot dry with paper towels. You should have about 8 cups.

In a heavy 10-inch cast-iron skillet, heat 3 tablespoons clarified butter over medium heat. When hot, carefully place 1 potato slice in the middle, then quickly place more slices around it, overlapping them clockwise to make a ring. Place a second ring to surround the first, going counterclockwise. Continue to the edge of the pan, alternating the direction in which the potato rings overlap. Sprinkle with a generous 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste, then drizzle with another 2 tablespoons butter.

Create second layer of potatoes, just as you did the first. Season with salt and pepper; drizzle with butter.

Continue layering potatoes, butter and salt until everything is used, making a dome of potatoes in the middle (they will sink as they cook). Occasionally shake skillet gently to ensure potatoes aren’t sticking. When finished, there should be enough butter that it can be seen bubbling up the sides of the skillet.

Butter the bottom of a 9-inch pan and one side of a piece of foil. Push the pan down firmly on top of the potatoes to press them. Remove pan, then cover potatoes with the foil, buttered side down. Cover the foil with a lid. Set skillet on the baking sheet in oven and bake for 20 minutes.

Remove skillet from oven, uncover and remove foil, and again press potatoes down firmly with the 9-inch pan. (Re-butter bottom of pan, if necessary, before you press down.) Return to oven and bake uncovered, until potatoes are tender and the sides are dark brown when lifted away from skillet, 20 to 25 minutes.

Once more, remove skillet from oven and press potatoes down firmly with pan. Tip the skillet away from you to drain off the excess butter into a bowl (this can be reused for cooking), using the lid to keep the potatoes in place. Run a thin spatula around edge and bottom of skillet to loosen any slices stuck to the pan. Carefully turn out the potatoes onto a serving platter.

Classic Lyonnaise Potatoes

Classic Lyonnaise Potatoes

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Yield: 4 to 6 Servings
Emerils

Some restaurants do this with diced potatoes, but the traditional method calls for sliced. This simple combination of potatoes and onions is anything but ordinary.

  • 2TBS olive oil
  • 2lb Idaho potatoes, peeled and sliced ¼ inch thick
  • Salt and freshly ground white pepper
  • 4TBS (½ stick) butter, cut into pieces
  • 3onions, julienned
  • 2TBS chopped garlic
  • 1TBS finely chopped fresh parsley leaves, for garnish

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Once hot, cover bottom of pan with half the potatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Dot with half the butter and repeat with an additional layer so all the potatoes and butter are used. Cook until potatoes begin to brown on the bottom, 10 to 15 minutes. Add onions and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until onions and potatoes are cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Toss together.

Using a spatula, gently lift potatoes out of pan and place on a serving platter. Garnish with parsley.

Pommes Boulangère

Pommes Boulangère

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Serves 4 to 6
Adapted from many

The name translates to Potatoes from the Bakery. Many recipes call for par-boiling the potatoes or not having any liquid. This is nuts for this dish. Traditionally, either a beef roast or a chicken was roasted directly on top of the potatoes so it all fit in one pan. It was dropped off at the baker when the family went to church and picked up on the way home.

I make this in a cast-iron skillet.

  • 6medium Potatoes
  • 2medium Onions
  • ½cup white wine
  • 1cups stock
  • salt
  • pepper
  • 1tsp fresh thyme
  • 3-4TBS butter, optional
  • chopped parsley

Peal and half the onions. Slice to 1/4 inch thick. Layer on bottom of pan. I use a 12-inch cast-iron skillet. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

Peel and slice potatoes to 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick. Potatoes may be kept in water before they are sliced, but not after. It is OK if they turn color a little.

Layer the potatoes on top of the onions and if they make more than 1 layer, season the first layer lightly with salt and pepper.

Pour 1/2 cup of white wine over the potatoes.

Heat the stock to near boiling and pour over potatoes.

Season potatoes lightly with salt and pepper and sprinkle thyme leaves over. Add 2 to 4 TBS of butter if desired.

The dish can be baked like this, or you can put a chicken or roast on top and roast the entire dish.

Bake at 375°F for 1 hour. Adjust time and temperature to match your chicken or beef as necessary.

Potatoes should be browned and easily pierced.  Garnish with chopped parsley.

Rösti with Bacon and Scallions

Rösti with Bacon and Scallions

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Pronunced Roosty

Yield: 4 to 6 Servings

Victoria Granof / Bon Appétit

Swiss version of Hash Browns. Good though! Pronounced Roostie.

  • 4slices thick-cut smoked bacon (4 oz), chopped
  • 6scallions, chopped, divided
  • Olive oil
  • 3TBS unsalted butter, melted
  • 1½lb russet potatoes, peeled
  • 1tsp smoked salt or kosher salt plus more
  • ¾tsp freshly ground black pepper


Cook bacon in a small nonstick skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until most of fat is rendered and bacon begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Set 1 TBS of dark-green part of scallions aside. Add remaining scallions to skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until bacon is crisp and scallions are soft, 4–5 minutes longer. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon mixture to a paper towel-lined plate.

Pour bacon fat into a small bowl; reserve skillet. Add olive oil to the same bowl to measure 3 TBS. Add butter. Place 2 TBS fat mixture in skillet. Pour 2 TBS fat mixture into another bowl; add bacon mixture. Reserve remaining 2 TBS in small bowl.

Coarsely grate potatoes into a large bowl. Working in batches, squeeze potatoes with your hands or wrapped in a clean kitchen towel to release liquid; transfer to another large bowl. Add the reserved bacon mixture, 1 TBS (seems like too much!) salt, and pepper; toss to evenly distribute.

Heat reserved skillet over medium-low heat. Scrape potato mixture into hot skillet, pressing with a spatula into an even layer. Tent with foil; cook for 10 minutes, rotating skillet frequently to avoid hot spots. Remove foil; cook rösti until bottom is golden brown, about 5 minutes longer. Run a silicone spatula around sides and underneath rösti. Invert a large plate over skillet. Using oven mitts, carefully flip rösti onto plate.

Heat remaining 2 TBS fat in skillet. Slide rösti back in, browned side up. Tent with foil; cook for 5 minutes. Uncover; cook until browned on bottom and potatoes are cooked through, about 10 minutes longer. Gently run spatula around sides and underneath rösti and slide onto a serving plate. Sprinkle with reserved scallions and season with more salt, if desired.

Hash Browns

Hash Browns

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Hash Browns

Yield: 4 Servings
Bon Appétit

There are two kinds of hash browns: The chunky, floury, vaguely brown but not crisp kind, and the lacy, crunchy, shredded version here. Guess which one we prefer?

  • ½cup (1 stick) unsalted butter or 6 TBS ghee
  • 3russet potatoes (about 1½ lb), peeled
  • Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
  • Pinch of cayenne pepper
  • 1tsp kosher salt, plus more

Heat butter in a small saucepan over medium heat until foamy, about 3 minutes. Don’t let butter brown; reduce heat if needed. Skim off solids; discard. Using the coarse grater disk on a food processor or the largest holes on a box grater, shred potatoes. Transfer immediately to a large bowl of cold water; stir until water is cloudy. Drain and rinse potatoes well under cold running water to remove any excess starch, which can make hash browns gummy.

Transfer to a large kitchen towel. Gather together ends of towel and twist over sink, squeezing firmly to wring out as much liquid as possible (another step that ensures crisp results). Open towel and toss potatoes to loosen. Gather up towel and wring out potatoes once more. Transfer potatoes to a medium bowl and toss with pepper, cayenne, and 1 tsp. salt (make sure seasonings are evenly distributed).

Heat 4 Tbsp. clarified butter or ghee in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Add potatoes and cook, undisturbed, until a deep golden crust forms on bottom, about 5 minutes. Break up potatoes with a heatproof rubber spatula and continue to cook, turning occasionally with spatula and adding 1–2 Tbsp. clarified butter or ghee if pan becomes dry or potatoes start to stick, until crisped and browned all over, 8–10 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain; season with salt.

Skillet Hash Browns

Yield: 6 Servings
Bon Appétit

Here’s a skillet hash browns recipe that justifies the existence of that food processor grating disk (you didn’t throw it out, we hope). If you don’t have one, a box grater will do.

  • 5russet potatoes (about 3 lb), peeled, coarsely shredded
  • 1½tsp kosher salt
  • ¼tsp freshly ground black pepper
  • 8TBS vegetable oil, divided
  • 2bunches scallions, greens and whites separated, thinly sliced
  • Coarse sea salt (such as Maldon)

Rinse potatoes in a colander under cold water until water runs clear. Squeeze firmly to remove excess liquid. Transfer to a large bowl. Add salt and pepper; toss to coat.

Heat 6 tablespoons oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add half of potatoes; press gently into an even layer. Sprinkle with scallion whites. Top with remaining potatoes; press gently again. Cook until golden brown on bottom and sides, 10-15 minutes.

Slide hash browns onto a plate. Carefully place skillet upside down over hash browns and flip to invert into skillet, browned side up. Drizzle remaining 2 tablespoons oil around sides of skillet. Cook hash browns until bottom is golden brown, 10-15 minutes longer; slide onto a plate and season with sea salt. Top with scallion greens and cut into wedges.

DO AHEAD: Hash browns can be made 1 hour ahead. Place on a wire rack set inside a large rimmed baking sheet and keep them in a 200° oven. Top with scallions before serving.

Lobster/Seafood Plate Chowder

Lobster/Seafood Plate Chowder

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Yield: 4 servings
Recipe from Bruce Frankel, Panache Restaurant, Cambridge, MA

We had this for New Year’s Eve a couple of times.  Sad, this is wonderful stuff! Very simple to make, the recipe was featured on the cover of Food and Wine around 1987. Not a perfect substitute, but I converted this to use shrimp and scallops, and it is still great.  See photo below.

  • 4live lobsters, 1½ lb each
  • – or –
  • 1 lb shrimp, and 8 large sea scallops, foot removed 
  • 1½-2lb red potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼ inch dice
  • 1cup heavy cream
  • ½tsp salt
  • 6TBS unsalted butter
  • 1medium red onion, thinly sliced
  • minced fresh chives
  • cayenne pepper

Lobster version:  Bring a large stock pot of water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water and set aside. Drop 2 lobsters head first into the boiling water, cover and cook for 3 minutes. With tongs, transfer the lobsters to the ice water and let soak until cool enough to handle. Repeat with the remaining 2 lobsters.

Break off the tail and claws from each lobster. Remove the meat from the claws and knuckles. Split the tails lengthwise in half, leaving the meat in the shell. Remove the light green tomalley from the body, pass through a fine-mesh sieve and set aside.

Remove and discard any dark green matter from the bodies. Coarsely chop the carcasses and place in a large saucepan. Add water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat and simmer until the liquid is reduced to 1 cup, about 30 minutes. Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium saucepan, then set the lobster stock aside.

Shrimp version:  Peel and devein the shrimp, reserving the shells and tails.  Place the shells and tails in a saucepan and add two cups of water. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat and simmer until the liquid is reduced to 1 cup, about 30 minutes. Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium saucepan, then set the shrimp stock aside.

Both: Meanwhile, place the diced potatoes in a medium saucepan and add cold water to cover by at least 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook for about 3 minutes; the potatoes should still be very firm. Drain and rinse under cold water; drain well and set aside.

Add the cream and salt to the reserved lobster or shrimp stock. Simmer over moderate heat for 5 minutes. Whisk in 4 TBS of the butter, 1 TBS at a time. Remove from the heat.

In a large skillet or saucepan, melt the remaining 2 TBS butter over moderate heat. Add the onion and cook until softened and translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the potatoes and cook, tossing, for 1 minute. Pour in the cream sauce and add the reserved lobster meat and tail halves or the shrimp and scallops. Simmer until the seafood is cooked through, about 3 minutes; do not overcook. Spoon the chowder into individual soup plates. Add a spoonful of the sieved tomalley to the sauce in each bowl. Garnish each with a pinch of chives and a dash of cayenne.

Wine Suggestion: California Pinot Blanc